Archive for September, 2010

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Switzerland 2010: Hiking, Good Eats, Mountains, Squirrels, And A Measure Of Insanity

We’re back after another great holiday in Switzerland. This was a bit of a working holiday – as we had to arrange many things in the wake of my father’s passing away and my mother being institutionalized – but we still managed to get in some great times in the Alps.

Dubai

OK, Dubai is not in the Alps, but since we flew Emirates we transferred in Dubai. This should be named “The Airport That Never Sleeps” – even at 4 am it was a bustling hive of activity, with flights coming and going … crowds milling through one central hall … and all the shops open for business. Here we are in front of a pile of water pipes and tea/coffee pots. This store sold all sizes of these – from tiny to as tall as Rieko – plus flavoured tobaccos and tons of toy camels. Especially good were the chocolate covered date and nut confections.

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Klosters

We arrived in Klosters and headed to our accommodations – a whole floor in the house of our old neighbours when we lived in Klosters back in the 1960s. It was pretty cool heading up the old street I used to trudge as a schoolboy. And, what a view! The living room window looks out over my old school chum Hanmpi Garbald’s farmfields and up the valley to the Silvretta.

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In the late afternoons, the last sun angling into the valley starts to dapple the old barns on the hillside behind our old house – always a favourite view of mine, which I could never grow tired of. I looked out over this every evening.

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With the clear mountain air swirling through my brain, I spent many an early morning at the dining table – jotting notes for the upcoming Clockwork Manifesto.

The Clockwork Manifesto is an idea that has been gelling for quite a while in my brain, but I had no time to just ponder it while in Osaka. Here, in the mountain air and with no computer, I could fully turn my brain to what is going to be my full focus once I wrap up a few other projects. The Clockwork Manifesto is being written as a solution to the problems I’ve seen so many having. Every year of late I’ve been thoroughly enjoying the freedom that my online business affords me – and the ability to take long vacations abroad (even though this year’s European vacation was a mite short) – and I want others to do the same. What has frustrated me for the last couple of years is that I know that most people can do this, but again and again I’ve watched too many fail to do so. I’ve watched what causes this and I’ve worked on a solution – this is what The Clockwork Manifesto will provide. And, the digital version will be FREE. Look for it (hopefully) in late October.

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Our first day back in Klosters, we took leisurely wanders around the old neighbourhoods and a relaxing lunch at Fellini’s.

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After Annemarie and Peter arrived (my sister and brother-in-law), we took in the yearly autumn market (Herbst Markt) on the Bahnhofstrasse. Here we are at the end of the street, enjoying grilled Cervelat (a fat Swiss sausage).

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Via Monbiel To Garfiun And Back With The Deadly Trotinett

As the sun starts to hit the peaks, and it looks like it’s going to be another great day, it’s time to do one of our favourite walks. We’ll head across the field to my friend’s farm (large white house on left) and then climb the hill behind it. Our goal lies far up the valley in the background. We’ll walk to Monbiel and then on to Garfiun.

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Rieko clears the first hurdle – the long climb behind Garbald’s farm. Klosters is in the background, with the old Protestant church’s steeple poking into the air.

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A quick break at the Lesebank (reading bench). If there was a cappuccino machine embedded in that tree, this would be a perfect place to read a book.

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After a while, we spy our first target of the day …

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… Sunnebeizli Hennagadä – our favourite rest stop, where a small barn has self-serve drinks and cakes. You sit on a small terrace and enjoy a fantastic view.

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Then, on to the small hamlet of Monbiel, where Rieko has a heart-to-heart with one of the local cheese providers.

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Another hour’s walk and we pass through the barns of Alp Pardenn and spy Alp Garfiun ahead. The pace picks up as hungry stomachs see the terrace beckoning.

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Alp Garfiun is an old alp barn that has been turned into one of the coolest restaurants. Here, we enjoy Bratwurst, Gerstensuppe (a local barley soup), and big chunks of bread. Must fuel up for what’s to come.

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Here is where I make the ill-fated decision to rent four Trotinett – kick bikes – for a run back down into Klosters.

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At this point, Rieko was getting the hang of these things (unlike a regular bicycle, standing on the kick bike is a different kettle of fish when it comes to balance). Unfortunately, shortly after this picture, poor Rieko lost control when she hit a rock and did some damage to both her knee and her pants.

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Gotschna To Davos

The next day, it was perfect for going up Gotschna – the main mountain looming over Klosters. We got to visit Pop’s final resting place. He has a great view of the Prättigau Valley. Then, we popped into the top station restaurant for a quick pick-me-up.

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It was at this point that I decided it was time for my “crazy thing”. This time it was to take a headlong run down the north face (Gotschna Wang). 500 exhilarating meters drop to the middle station, and I had 30 minutes to do it in if I was to beat them down the mountain. With only one head-first tuck-and-roll over some wicked rocks and two death-defying slides where I was not 100% certain I could actually stop before something nasty happened, it was a total adrenaline rush – and I may have exorcised “the crazies” for a while.

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Then, a leisurely walk into the forest to the left of Gotschnaboden (the middle station). Here, we always get to see lots of Marmots.

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The trail through the forest is gorgeous.

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Then, a quick drink break at a bench as we break out of the forest and into the fields by Davos Wolfgang.

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From here, it’s a basically level walk across fields and around Davos Lake, as we head to the city of Davos.

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And … the reward. Our must-visit restaurant is Schneider’s, where they have these lovely little over-priced trimmed sandwiches with a slight gelatin glaze. Heavenly!

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Jakobshorn To Sertig Dörfli

Today, we took the train up to Davos and then the cable car to the top of the Jakobshorn. Great views!

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The first part of our hike was a rather pedestrian stroll along a wide path along the edge of the ridge.

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Then, the men made fire and cooked Cervelat on the contraptions they crafted from some found wire and pieces of wood. There is nothing like the taste of a Cervelat you’ve cooked over a wood fire on a mountain top.

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The trail narrows and leads on through alpine splendour.

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Then, we wind down into the treeline and spy our target of Sertig Dörfli. Rieko points to the hamlet, but I have no idea what Peter is pointing at. A terrace and drinks await us. Later (in October I hope) you’ll see a special video I shot for you, which was shot here on this hillside.

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Sertig is a tiny place with a tiny stone church …

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… beautiful sun-burned barns …

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… and more of those cheese-producers.

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Down The Schluchtweg

We had many things to take care of today, but with some hours of daylight left we decided to take the train to Davos Wolfgang and walk down the Schluchtweg – a trail that follows the stream from Davos to Klosters. This is quite a different environment from the alpine trails.

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Oops! Just about took a very cold dip.

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Ahhh! More rewards.

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Long Trek From Madrisa To Küblis

Actually, this was supposed to be a gentle walk and picnic at the top of Madrisa. Somehow it all went terribly wrong. Here, we are riding up the Madrisa Bahn (gondolas) and poor Rieko is oblivious of the hell to come.

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Look! What a gentle trail. Like a Sunday walk in the park.

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It’s just a small bridge. Still very gentle.

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Ah. This should have been a warning. That’s Küblis far, far below (about 1100m {3610 ft} below to be precise). But, we had no plans to hike down there.

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“Just a little bit further.” After all, that first part was far too easy and we hadn’t yet built up an appetite for our picnic lunch.

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We don’t yet know that we will end up on that far away trail. Nor that we will cover about 15 km (about 9.5 miles) of trail and climb down that 1100 meters.

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OK! It may be getting a little bit rocky. And there was that sign warning of Steinschlag (rockfall). But, it is a nice day :-)

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Hmmm. Pretty nice hiking actually.

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And look at those rocks. Beautiful!

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We come to “civilization”. “See. That wasn’t so bad” Little does he know.

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“Look! Even roads!” And we enjoy our hearty cheese and Rohschinken (lightly smoked ham – unlike ham altogether) sandwiches.

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No. Rieko is not phoning the sheep. Just adding another picture to her cell phone. Within minutes of this photo, we took the wrong turn (cue dum-da-dum music).

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To save you the gruesome visuals, there are no photos of the horrible bushwacking, the field that must have been used for artillery practice and then filled with water, or the sheer drop that precluded any further advance in that direction. OK, honestly, the camera stayed put as I needed both hands.

Finally, we did find a route down off the alp and ended up on this gentle road that wound down into Küblis.

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And there, off in the far distance, is where it all began. A Sunday stroll and picnic that turned into a 15-kilometer trek. And Rieko is bravely smiling. She does put up with me!

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Around Davos Lake

After the previous day’s debacle, I was not allowed to plan the next outing. Rieko opted for a walk around Davos Lake and a picnic lunch that didn’t involve a major trek.

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We found a quiet spot off the trail to enjoy our shrimp sandwiches.

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Soon, we had captured the attention of the local squirrel pack. I thought this guy would nibble a small piece off the chunk of hazelnut cake I held out for him, but the little rascal snatched the whole chunk.

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Aborted Gotschna And Back To Monbiel

Woke up to a foggy morning on our last day.

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However, decided to take one more ride up Gotschna – in hopes of a trek gentle hike to Parsenn … and maybe on to Totalpsee. The view out of the cable car was pretty limited.

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At the top, things simply disappeared. Obviously, we were not even going for much of a stroll. Time for a cuppa and back down the mountain. (In the cable car. I’m not that crazy.)

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Then, a walk back to Monbiel and the Höhenwald restaurant, where we enjoyed a fantastic lunch. Rieko has Käsespätzli (cheese egg-noodle dumpling thingies) and I have Pizokel (also cheese egg-noodle dumpling thingies, but different) with bacon and pears, and applesauce on the side.

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The walk back from Monbiel, over the Berg and down to my friend’s farm was badly needed after the feast.

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Zürich

On the return trip, our usual overnight in Zürich and dinner at the Zeughauskeller – a large beer hall where they serve large sausages and mountains of potato salad.

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Another fantastic time in Europe. Already planning our next trip!

So … where are you going next? Post it below. Make a commitment to travel somewhere special.